FAQ

Got questions? We have answers. If you don't find what you are looking for here, please send us a note, and one of our lure builder pros will try to get you the information you need. 

Frequently Asked Questions

What age are Outcast Kits designed for?

Our kits are certified safe for creators as young a 10 years old, but don't be surprised if the adults at the table get just as hooked. Lure building is a skill that grows with you — beginners and experienced anglers alike find something to love. And younger artists can enjoy the process, with a little support from you. 

Do I need any prior fishing or crafting experience?

None at all. Every kit includes everything you need to get started, with clear instructions that make the building process fun and approachable for first-timers.

Is every lure truly unique?

Yes — every lure built with an Outcast Kit is one of a kind. The combinations of colors, materials, and finishing touches mean no two lures are ever exactly alike. Yours will be the only one like it in the world.

Can the lures actually be used for fishing?

Absolutely — that's the whole point. For best results on the water, we recommend finishing your lure with a protective top coat to lock in the paint and maximize durability.

The best option is a UV cured Resin, available at most craft stores (or nail salon supply shops)  We will carry top coat materials in our store so your creation can handle whatever you throw at it, cast after cast. Keep an eye on our ProShop for availability.

What makes Outcast Kits different from buying a lure at a store?

A store-bought lure is just a lure. An Outcast Kit is an experience — the story of building it together, the skills you pick up along the way, and the extra satisfaction when a fish hits something you made yourself.

What is the first step in painting my lure?

We recommend that you apply a base coat of paint to the entire body. While most often, our pros start with a white base, you may find that another color base will add more depth to your final piece. Experimentation is what these kits are all about. Whatever base color you choose, keep it very thin and allow a few minutes for it to dry. While your waiting, you can coat a 2nd body so it will be ready to paint later. 

How can I be sure my pattern aligns with the hooks when I am done?

You will notice a predrilled hole on the belly of the most of our lure blanks. We often will insert a toothpick or a push-pin to help identify the bottom of the lure. These also aid in keeping the hole clear of paint or resin, making it easier to install the hooks once your lure is completed. You can also use these to turn the lure on it's axis while applying your paint patterns.

What are some of the basic design ideas I can follow?

We have provided four sample patterns on the inside of the the kit box.

• Shiner (Blue over White, with a dark back (top)
• Frog (White or Orange Belly, Green Back, Florescent Orange spots)
• Blurple (Purple belly, Black back)
• Ladyfish (White belly, Florescent Pink top, Light Green side banding) 

These are classic patterns that most builders can replicate with a little practice and patience. Keep in mind, there are no wrong ways to paint your custom lure.  

Can I mix colors?

Absolutely, and that is where the real magic begins to take shape. A small plastic plate is a great palette for blending and mixing up your own unique color variations. Start with a small brush load of your base color (often white or yellow), then add a very small amount of the color you want to blend in.Mix these together, adjusting with very small amounts of the two colors. 

Be sure to rinse your brush whenever you are changing to a new color from the tubs. Just insert your brush into a small cup of water, and then wipe it off on a paper towel. You may want to do this more than once to be certain to not accidentally blend your tub colors.

We don't recommend mixing more than two colors at a time. With more colors, it is hard to adjust, and you will often just end up with a dark, dull brown, but hey, if that's what you were going for, congratulations!

Why is my lure taking so long to dry?

The ideal paint application is one that isn't so heavy as to be visibly bulky on the lure. Try to keep each color or detail you add to a nice thin layer. If you need to go over the same area for good coverage, it is far better to do two (or more) thin coats, allowing a few minutes for the previous coat to air dry. Our pros sometimes use a hair dryer to speed the drying time between coats. 

I see some people using their fingers to smudge the paint on the lure while it is still wet, why is that?

This is an artist techniques called "blending". This allows for new layer colors to seamlessly blend into your base colors, helping to disguise brush marks. It is best done with lighter colors over darker, and use a very small amount of paint on the top layer. 

Used well, this technique really adds depth to your pattern, creating more natural transitions from one tone to the next. Practice with different color pairings to see how this skill can really bring out the beauty in your lures. 

What is the best way to add eyes to my lure. 

Congratulations! If you're at the stage of adding eyes, you have really made it. 

Our pros will tell you that details like eyes, scales and such can be the trickiest part of the process. One great tip is to wait until your lure is fully dry, and then apply a thin layer of the clear acrylic gloss finish over your entire lure. (This is in the single tub paint pot marked with a "G" in the small parts bag.)

Once this has dried (3-5 minutes) you can safely touch the lure, helping to locate precisely where you want to put your eyes. If you have not done so already, put a toothpick into the belly hook hole (pre-drilled) to give you a quick way to match the left and right side of your lure. 

Once you have planned out where you want your eyes, apply a thin layer of White in a circle on each side of your lure, as large as you want your eyes to be. Allow these to fully dry, and then add  slightly small circles of Red inside the White. Allow these to fully dry, and finish both eyes with even smaller dots of Black. Just be sure to give each layer time to dry before going to the next. 

And you don't have to stop there. Some creators like to add little highlights (Florescent Orange?) around the top or bottom of the outer edge of the white circles. You can even try blending these details into the existing body scheme. 

I see a lot of lures with Red on the front. Why is that?

Many builders (and anglers) feel that the red at the front of a lure replicates the look of an injured bait-fish. It is a long held lore that predatory fish will key in on injured bait-fish as an easy meal. So painting the face of your lure red can help improve its fish catching abilities (or so we are told).

I am not getting the lure to look like the sample designs. Am I doing something wrong?

You are doing just fine. Every skill in the outdoor world take practice and patience. Remember, this is not a race. And creating a truly "perfect" lure isn't the goal either. Each new lure you paint will show how your skills as a lure designer/builder have grown. 

And if you really, really, really don't like how your lure turned out, re-paint a white base coat, and start again.

You will need to let the first attempt fully dry, and you may find that giving it a light sanding to smooth out the surface is worth the time. Nothing too heavy, but 400 grit paper or finer will do just great.

I MADE IT! It looks so cool! Now what?

Fantastic! Great job. 

In the small parts bag included in your kit, you will find a single paint tub marked with a "G". This is an acrylic clear coat that can be applied all over your lure. It may appear milky or even white as you apply it (again, thin layers, not globs) but it will dry to a clear, slightly shiny cover coating. This layer helps to enhance the colors you've added, and provides a protective top-coat. 

Before you move on to installing the hooks and other rigging, now is when you will want to consider adding a final protective layer. We highly recommend using either a clear UV resin (Alumi-UV Light Cured Resin is our favorite), or any brush on gloss clear coat available at tackle stores or fly tying suppliers. 

Your Outcast Kit may have come with a sample pack of UV resin. Most or our Retail Partners have samples that they will provide to you when you purchase your kits from them.  

Instructions for applying and curing either a UV resin or other top-coatings can be found on the manufacturer's website or on YouTube. 

Wait, I am still stuck. Can you help?

Of course. Simply send us a note explaining what you are trying to do, or what is not working for you, and one of our pros will reply with some suggestions. It may take us a day or two, as we are often out fishing with our lures too!